As part of my mission to bring you’all the most current and detailed info about riding in the Kootenays, I braved the cold and headed out. Found myself with a 3 day window, so headed out to basically do the Trout Lake Loop whilst doing a bunch of side exploring to bring you some new routes soon…
Day One……. Actually, Evening One.
Since it was the first trip of the year, and even after digging through all the bins, I wasn’t completely sure I had everything. So the first night was close to home for a test run. And when I say close, I mean like 10 min away. But holy crap I’m lucky to live where I do!
I remembered just about everything, so that was a good start! Some handy folks even left a few pallets laying around so had a fantastic fire to keep the chill off. Did I mention that we had a few inches of snow the previous night?? So yeah, still below zero Celsius that night and I was appropriately chilly. Quick stop back at home to grab a emergency bivy and ultralight sleeping liner. The plan was to put the sleeping pad inside them to keep the ground cold at bay.
Day Two
So after a re-pack, headed out via a local singletrack trail to get to Nelson. From there followed the Trout Lake Route heading north along Kootenay Lake arriving in Kaslo. For fuel for the bike as well as my belly. So, a wee pint and a BC made Jamaican Patty at Angry Hen Brewing. And a view of the famous S.S. Moyie Paddlewheeler, the world’s oldest intact passenger sternwheeler left.
If you have the time, there’s lots to explore and see in Kaslo. And the last main bit of civilization until you get around to Nakusp. Of course there is a fantastic general store in Meadow Creek, but it has short hours. So get your fuel and food now if it’s getting later in the day.
Angry Hen Brewing
In the heart of Historic Kaslo, the angry Hen offers tasty beers with a spectacular view of Kootenays lake. Kaslo’s “Angry Hen” ferments her years of brewing experience with passion and outrage to bring you the finest of beers. Tradition mixed with innovation creates unique beers renowned for their solid
Had to make the mandatory stop at the Marblehead Quarry just past Meadow Creek. Super cool old Quarry site that tends to be a bit of a party spot at night. And completely covered in graffiti, which is actually pretty interesting if you look at the individual tags.
Marblehead Quarry
Just north of Meadow Creek is the Marblehead quarry, established in the first decade of the 20th century. It provided building materials for impressive edifices locally and for the Mormon temple at Cardston, Alberta and Great West Life block in Winnipeg, among others. The quarry last operated in the 1930s
Duncan Lake Camping
Stoped for the night at the Howser Rec site on Duncan Lake. There’s two parts, the northern part fits larger rv’s, where the southern part is smaller tent sites and that’s my go-to. It’s kinda alright. I guess…
Day Three
The more insulated sleeping pad did the trick and I slept like a baby (which is a ridiculous saying if you’re ever had kids!). Still pretty chilly first thing in the morning, so no real rush to get going. Plenty of time for a dark mountain coffee. Or three.
Pro Tip #98475. When it’s this time of year, start late, finish late. It may feel nice in the sun, but that wind at riding speed is frikken chilly.
Rolling onto what is technically Highway 31 is a fantastic place to be. And I gotta say, this was one of the most pleasant trips through I’ve made. In the summer it is busy with traffic and can be quite dusty. Not a single vehicle, and no dust! With just a few muddy corners. Just stellar…
the community of trout lake
A small community at the West end of Trout Lake, it really is the only thing around up here. One of the coolest things I’ve seem in a long time is the hand pumped fuel pumps! The attendant has to pump the fuel up into the glass bit like pumping water. It then flows by gravity into your tank. So, in a nutshell, yes you can top up your tank here and grab snacks and a cold drink.
If your looking for a bit more civilized accommodation for an evening, check into the Trout Lake Windsor Hotel. It’s an amazing bit of time-warp. Do it sometime, you won’t regret it!
Trout Lake Windsor Hotel
The historic Windsor Hotel is an located in the heart of the Selkirk Mountains and next to the pristine Trout Lake where rugged wilderness meets the turn of the Century style. Since the 1890’s when the Windsor first opened its doors the Hotel has hosted thousands of guests including British
Shortly after that, it’s back to pavement, but man that gravel section along the lake is something beautiful. Now, here I deviated from the loop to go across the Galena Bay Ferry over to Shelter Bay. This was a fact finding mission to map out a upcoming route that goes along the West side of the Upper Arrow Lake. More on that in another post.
After exploring and getting stopped by snow, I retreated back to the ferry for the return trip. Rolled onto the ferry with everything good, rolled off with a flat! No biggie, I carry everything I need and am well practiced at doing my own tires.
Took lots of pics and I’ll do a little write-up on what I carry and how I use them soon. Also, bonus free WiFi at this side of the ferry! As well as the only cell service between Kaslo and Nakusp. Yes, there’s alot of nothing up here, come prepared!!
Nakusp
With the tube all patched, into Nakusp to reward myself with a burger and fries at The Hut. Sorta a must when I come through town. Then grabbed a few more supplies for the night as I was planning on staying just outside of town for the night at Box Lake Rec site.
Then a quick stop in to see how things were looking for this year at the Riders Retreat. They may not be able to open at full capacity with this year’s restrictions, but hopefully will be able to provide a place to lay your head. Check them out!
Day Four
Another chilly night, and I gotta be honest. I went back into Nakusp for breakfast. Found a place in the sun on the patio at the Broadway Deli Bistro. The breakfast burrito filled me belly…
All fortified for the day, I was off to explore another potential gravel track. Again, stopped by snow (what did I expect?). Took the highway to the other end of the track to see how far I could get up that side. Turns out, not that far. 4km up, and out of cell range got another flat. And this time ripped the valve stem out. No fixing that and guess what, no spare left. So here’s where being prepared comes in. I never go anywhere without my Garmin Inreach and this is exactly why!
So when life gives you lemons, you make…..lunch! I settled in, resigned to my fate and got to business. Started texting buddies via the Inreach to see who was up to a rescue mission and deliver a tube to me. I got a taker, who grabbed a tube and rode out. I was just giving him an excuse to go for a ride on a beautiful day!
I quickly installed the new tube, and we rode back to nelson together. Perfectly in time to join the weekly Tuesday night dual-sport group ride! Had great time ripping with the group, loaded for camping and everything! Man I love this bike….
Bonus Linkage
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