Continuing in my mission to bring you’all the most current and detailed info about riding in the Kootenays, I again braved the cold and headed out. With 5 days this time, I went to see what was doable and what was still snowbound.
It’s all mapped!!
Click through on any map image if you want to see where all I went. Different colours for each day’s route, with a few dead ends where I met snow.
Day One. Nelson to Horseshoe Lake (Brown Track)
Until Gray Creek Pass opens up only way to the East Kootenays is to put in the time on pavement. Haven’t done it in a while, so decided to take the ferry across to Crawford Bay and cruise down the East Shore. Beautiful day and a fantastic view! Took a shortcut across just North of Creston as I didn’t need fuel or anything. And we’ll worth it! A great paved country road that goes through farming lands. Then simply up to Ft. Steele, and head East under the watch of snowcapped peaks.
Day one was completely uneventful. Sooooo that was way too easy. But after a late start, I pitched camp with Mitch and his family who now lives out that way. Catching up around a campfire is sorta the best thing ever.
Day Two (Green Track)
Plan for the morning was to leave all the gear at camp and chase Mitch around on his killer DR trail beast. Bike sure fells nice to take out without all the extra weight! Anyone who has ridden with Mitch knows he has some skills, so I did my best. My over-worn-out rear tire couldn’t quite handle one of the steeper lines so the 690 took a wee nap. Fun time exploring around the ATV area at Wardner.
Back to camp, pack up, say goodbye and off Eastward!
Random find of the day was really cool canyon across the Bull River just below the Aberfieldie Dam. Definitely worth a stop to look around, but mind the edges, no safely fencing here!
Riding through THAT storm
Sunday afternoon brought a crazy windstorm to most of the Kootenays! Naturally, I still had some distance to go, so bundled up, and got wrapped in raingear (ALWAYS carry it, you never know!!). Wind was nutty, sticking to backroads and going slower helped but I was close to being blown over many, many times…
A good trail saw is a must, especially during and after a big storm. Being prepared saved me well over a backtrack that would have forced me onto the highway. Not to mention it’s right helpful getting that fire going in the evening (and a good poking stick!)
Survived the wind and blowing snow, and found my way to the Kikomum Rec site. Quickly pitched the tent and crawled inside to hide. Then…..it passed? So crawled out for a proper meal and a campfire…
Day Three (Teal Track)
Another cold night, so my old bones are slow to get going. A few coffees, and lots of hand rubbing, finally finished packing up and rolling around 10am. Pro tip 93475: when it’s this time of year, start late, finish late to maximize the warm hours.
Heading East with the plan of getting to Fernie for a late lunch, rolled east of Elko after fuelling up.
After following the Elk River for a bit, I thought I’d take a shot and head up over Morrissey FSR and get to Fernie that way. Not too far after a somewhat sketchy-looking bridge, the snow stopped that plan. Back to Cokato FSR and into Fernie for fuel for both the bike and the rider…
Located just East of Fernie, this microbrewery has a most excellent selection of on-site brewed beer. And a beautiful spot to loiter and look at maps. Not to mention a helpful staff who called a buddy to check local snow conditions. Now that’s full service!!
Refreshed and a plan to come back once the snowline lifts, back southwestish and to find a spot for the night. Rode along the River Road Extension FSR which provided some epic views that pics just don’t do justice. Highly recommend this route if you get a chance.
And then there was this monster! I’m not going to pretend to know what it’s actually designation is, other that it’s damn cool!
Fussee Rec Site
Neat little rec site in a marshy area. Tons of ducks and I was on the lookout for Moose, it was exactly where they like to hang out. Here’s a Happy Craig after a great day of riding.
Day Four (purple Track)
Woke from a rather chilly night (water bottle froze solid!). And here’s a Grumpy Craig. These old bones didn’t much like moving this morning. So, with no water for coffee, headed the General Store/fuel in Baynes for ‘breakfast’.
Then West to Cranbrook along Gold Creek. Not really much to recommend this stretch, it’s a big, wide, flat well maintained logging road. Good for making up some time, but I won’t be going back along that way. It’ll get really dusty if busy.
Late lunch in Cranbrook
They have the outdoor seating thing dialed in Cranbrook. Lots of parking spots reclaimed, blocked from the streets with concrete barriers. Had a local BC pint at the Fire Hall Kitchen and Tap and a peanutbutter bacon burger with jalapeno relish. Yeah, that hit the spot!
Headed for Gray Creek Pass?
Just kidding, that’ll be a while yet. But headed to the rec site at it’s base where the bridge crossed the St. Mary’s River. Took Booth Creek FSR until I got stopped by snow, but managed to backtrack and find a cool quad-track that got me through. An although I’m getting through, the roads certainly aren’t clear. These folks went into the ditch 30min before I passed. They were standing there waiting to get pulled out, but I don’t think they knew how involved it’s going to be!
Day Five (yellow Track)
After another chilly night (yes, I finally remembered to put the water for my morning coffee in the pot BEFORE bed!) I relaxed a bit. Day 5, whew! Been a whirlwind of a tour, and so much to come back to once the snow is gone. Took the quick way back to Cranbrook via St Mary’s for a meeting (yes, this is a work trip??) and one more thing to scope out…
Future Kitchener – Moyie route
Went to begin exploration of a backroad way to get from Kitchener to just south of Cranbrook. (the orange bit in the pic). Stopped by snow (surprise!!) but found a super cool campground. Hidden out of the way is the Noke Creek Campground. Had a chat with the owner and I’m definitely going back to stay. Campsites and cabins and right along this possible new route! After a little backtrack, made a beeline for home via the Kootenay Pass.
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That was quite the adventure.
loved the adventure and article, soon the passes will be open and buzzing with bikes!
Thanks for the detailed report…great “business” trip,lol
Great ride report, I’d like to make it up there sometime.
Awesome report need to go check the easy kootenays
That orange route (Lumberton) that you found the Noke Creek campground comes out near Kitchner on the Kidd Creek FSR. It’s a great way to avoid highway travel from Kitchener to Cranbrook.
Yup, that’s exactly the route I’m looking at. It would cut off a ton of highway!